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Audrey Vinkenes's avatar

I'm disappointed but not entirely surprised. I've always felt that Djerf Avenue seems like a much more expensive version of things anyone could find in a thrift store. If I wanted an oversized blazer or a shirt that badly, I'd just take it from my boyfriends closet. Basically, everything she does feels derivative. If someone less beautiful was selling the same thing, I'm not sure how well the brand would do. Given her lack of originiality, I'm more surprised that Matilda is able to survive one PR crisis after another, especially after that Aftonbladet exposé on how she treats employees.

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cactusjackie's avatar

Thank you for writing this! As a graphic designer who works in the fashion/retail industry, I see this happen all too often. It's one thing to be inspired by another creative's work and make it your own, but it's an entirely different thing to copy the work 1:1 without acknowledging the inspiration. I've seen brands ripoff photoshoots from Emily Oberg, for example, by using identical poses, studio setting/lighting, and styling. After working in the fashion industry for a few years I've become disillusioned with most of the people who work for large brands, a lot of them are lacking the passion to create their own original work.

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Bobbie Notcutt's avatar

completely hear this, & yes it's so interesting when you do have these tastemakers who are really carving their way & suddenly you see content mimicking what they are pioneering everywhere!

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Jenna Murphy's avatar

Such a brilliant write-up! I'm from/based in the US yet still surprised this scandal and the influencer somehow flew under my radar. As a photographer pivoting into AD, I agree with everything you said. The visual work we create really is the "product" we offer and it seriously stings when it's ripped off!

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Gabriel Nuer's avatar

These are both clearly in reference to the mythological image of Aphrodite being born out of a pearl, and I think Katy Perry did something similar at one point. Nothing about the two images is new, even down to the framing, so I don't super think its fair to call criticism here, due to the ubiquity of the reference image. If I go to the Golden Gate bridge and take a photo that other people have taken thousands of times, can I really be called out/call someone out for copying an idea?

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Bobbie Notcutt's avatar

Completely see what you are saying about the overall reference/ symbolism here & that isn't what I'm disputing here. What is up for question is a shell being made to look the exact same as another photo, with the same posing also being used here. This is taking a reference that isn't a homage to lets say Aphrodite, but a replica of a commercial shoot that they think would look good for their brand!

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Gabriel Nuer's avatar

I totally get that, but the entirety of the image from shell and the posing and even the style of dress is drawn from the mythological image, so I don’t think that the original is really different enough from previous existing works to be considered something that was copied, ultimately they are derivative of the same thing. It feels weird to get up in arms about accusing someone of plagiarism over an idea that is not their own. If the original photo somehow reinterpreted the image of Aphrodite coming out of the shell that made it markedly different from previous iterations, then I think they would have a stronger argument, but looking at these and comparing them to the cannon I don’t see the artist having a strong claim to being the original photographer here.

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ANU's avatar
Apr 17Edited

I think the issue is not the copying of the concept, but specific shell itself. There are many ways to create a shell shape. The outline and detailing of the Djerf shell has the exact same undulations as the Slip shell, which is what the set designer is complaining about. She designed and created that shell, which was copied without credit, which warrants her claim. It's not about the image, photography, or concept.

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Addi Kirk's avatar

Well written! As I’m starting a creative career one of the difficult things to come to terms with is that there will be times that people copy you inadvertently or directly, and like this article, there are a lot of times it won’t be fair. It’s so heartbreaking to see someone receive attention, accolades, even awards for your original thoughts. (Cough cough Mel Robbins/Cassie Philips) It’s one of the most difficult parts of being a creative I think.

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Joy Bwiza's avatar

I may have missed it because I’m no longer on TT and have been heavily curating my social media, but this was interesting. People’s arrogance of believing that they will just manage to get away with something will never fail to amaze me. I don’t want to become malicious but I definitely want to be more audacious because of this.

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